Corset #3 or I found my waist

Understanding your body shape is so important and it's been one of my biggest difficulties ( though I totally rock other people's figures). While making the FR contest mock up I realized the waist tape put pressure on my hip bones, so I moved it up 1 1/4 inches and voila, I found the squish I was looking for. I also discovered that my pelvis tilts so my back waist is higher then the front. I took all of my new discoveries into account as I drafted my new under bust pattern.

This is what my mock up looked like for the last two under bust corsets I blogged about.

This is the new one. Quite an improvement in both shape and comfort.

I wanted to use up the rest of my black cherry silk , I'd used it for some of my final Etsy designs and thought that I'd put some of the pieces with this project for a whole set. I didn't have that much left so I cut this pattern down to make a cincher instead of a full under bust.

I decide to use a different method of construction on this one as well. It's called the flat felled or the welt method. To get started I put my layers together and positioned the waist tape in between them and then sewed in my bone channels.

This is the fashion side.

This is the inner side and strength layer.

This is a look at all of the layers used. I have the cherry silk backed with EK 130 interfacing (I like the tiny bit of stretch it allows). I put an inner layer of cotton sateen in to have a barrier between the silk and the heavy canvas (which is the third layer) so the bones have a more reinforced channel.

With the front panel done, I sandwiched the seam of the next panel by sewing the fashion layer on one side and the strength layer on the other. So it's basically finishing the seams by encasing them inside the corset. Every thing is attached this way, nothing is floating.

I added an invisible channel here.

Then I folded it over and roll pinned so that it would be smooth. This method allows for turn of cloth, so that the under layers don't bunch up when the corset is on the body.

I attached the next panel the same way and followed the process to the end. I also top stitched a channel into the seams as I went, thus creating the flat felled or welt seam.
You can see the felled seams that act as channels here.

I'm trying to use up some of the odd pieces of boning I have laying about, so the bones are in all different sizes. Some of them fit well and some of them are too long. I secured them with really ugly stitching so that I don't get any movement when the corset is done. It's not pretty but it's going under the binding any way.

The corset was now complete and I thought it was so pretty at this point, I took a picture. I love the way silk behaves under light and I love this color.

While sewing the binding, I skipped over those long bones and then went back and hand stitched between the machine stitches. I just caught the outer layer to the bias strip so that when the bias was folded over it looked right.

Then I pressed it to the other side and hand stitched the binding down. I like to hand stitch the binding, I think it's a cleaner finish, I don't like the way a machine stitch looks on the fashion side of the corset.

The last step was to put the grommets in and I was all done.

I laced it up and it didn't fit. I used drop cloth as my mock up material, it might have to much stretch in it. I think I need to start using the heavy canvas for mock ups so that I can be extra extra confident in the finished size. Also, stress makes me blow up like a balloon. Ha! We've all been there, I'm not to worried, and when life settles down I'll be less swollen. It's pretty and eventually it will be wearable.

Ok, so the things I'd change. In the front I think I cut it down just a little too much. Others might like it, but for me personally, I like it to be up to my bra line. I know that technically that's not a cincher. and I did only have a small amount available, so it was necessary to cut it down. I might need to work on this one a little more to get a shape I like. I think I'd also put some boning on the center front line.

The side view is dramatic and I like the slope. If I change the height of the front I might not. The side seam is too bulky for my taste and I know the pulling there happened because of that. If I use this method of construction again, I'm going to need a better strategy for the side seam.

I like the height of the back and I think the lower back works well with the frilled panties that I like to put with everything.  

I have to put flowers with everything. I love them, they're cute, and I think they're essential to my aesthetic. I put a matching flower with a slight contrast with this cincher. I think it looked better then one of a different color.

I made this to go with my shelf bra and sided frilled panties.
 It will be a fun set for ......well, anything really.

I'm not completely happy (ha! ridiculous perfectionist talking here), but as I've said before, I'm still learning and I think I'm getting there.

Raycie LaRaye Giveaway

***Raycie LaRaye's Giveaway***

Ok everyone, I want to start this year off with a Bang. If you all will help me get to 500 likes I will give away one of my Corset bras and two 50% off coupons for my Etsy shop, where you can use it on anything you want. I custom make my designs for any shape or size.

www.raycielaraye.etsy.com

The winner will be randomly chosen when I reach 500 LIKES on My FaceBook page. All you have to do is.....

Share this post with your friends....
LIKE my page....
and Please comment so I know you want to win. 

www.facebook.com/jilllaraye


Thanks Everyone and Good Luck!

Vision

 

I've been working on getting my Etsy shop (just the starting point) up for almost three years now. I'm happy to say that it's now live. www.raycielaraye.etsy.com  It's always hard to juggle what your life requires and a new goal you are trying to accomplish. Part of my struggle was having a clear vision of what I wanted. I've always known I was good at making clothing, I've worked very hard my whole life to have that skill. I've made costumes, bridal gowns, tailored suits, I even done puppet and toy design. Gosh, you name it, I could probably make it. But if I was going to really go for it and make this skill into a bona fide career, what was it that I really wanted to do? I've mentioned on earlier posts that I love corsets. There wasn't a huge amount of information on how to make them and it's an art that was slowly being lost. Luckily there are people out there who are dedicated to bringing the craft back and I've jumped on the band wagon as well. It's a niche market and to be successful, I'm going to have to be good at it.

 I AM going to have to be good, because it's what I've chosen as my career.

 

 

 

Under bust corsets are the easiest. I am getting better. I actually do quite well when making them for other people, my biggest challenge is making them for myself. Some would say that this is a beautiful corset, but I can already pick holes in it. I'm progressing quickly, which means my product just keeps getting better.

 

A basic under bust with flowers is available in my shop.

 



 

There's more to this story then " I like corsets".

 I grew up like most girls in my generation, seeing what the media had deemed beautiful, comparing myself and feeling greatly inadequate. I got tired of it when I hit thirty. I did things I wouldn't have had the courage to do earlier. I made myself be courageous. I took belly dance lessons, even though my belly wasn't solid. I performed with that belly out there and shook it for the whole world to see. I joined a burlesque troop and took my clothes off and shook some more. Some would argue that I'm an exhibitionist. I say I'm beautiful. I say my body, with all it's faults, is gorgeous. I have the right to be proud of it. Showing myself to the world has given me more confidence then I ever thought I could have. I am a well dressed, classy woman and as a whole I keep myself covered up. But, a bikini at the beach even if my stomachs not flat? You bet! Never again will I hide what I am.

 

So...that explained... I'll move on. It's always best when opening a store front to have a variety of different pieces that appeal to a wider range of customers. I had a great time designing the fun lingerie pieces on my site. I have a love of sexy, because now I feel sexy. When I first started out I made things for models to wear. Then I asked myself why I was throwing money away on clothes I would never use. I decided that I would be the model and then all the clothes could be personally tested out by me. What better way is there to know your product?

 

When I told people that I would be modeling I got comments like "huh really?, Wow that's brave, Don't you want someone thinner to wear those"? Yeah, that last one really happened.  I have cellulite and stretch marks, wrinkles and gray hair. I'm real. I'm beautiful. I make clothes for people just like me.

 

 

These Photos were taken by Susie Stout Photography. https://www.facebook.com/susiestoutphotography

I think she did a fantastic job.

 



 

You know, I'm sure that someone could point out at least one flaw in all of these pictures. Honestly, I'm sure some people will. So what. This imperfect body has carried me through the years and has never let me down. It continues to do what I ask of it. I love it, it's my very best friend.

 



 

So this is my vision...I want all of use to feel beautiful in our clothes. No matter what our shape or size, we all deserve that. Being beautiful is all about our attitudes, it comes from within and we all have it. I guess I want the whole world to know this about themselves.

 

One last thing, which I think is important. I've been blessed with good fortune. My circumstances have never been dire, but I have seen poverty and oppression first hand shelled out on my sisters all around the world. I believe in helping those who would help themselves if given the chance. Sometimes a chance is all someone needs. I plan to give $5.00 from every order on my Etsy shop to Women for Woman International.

 

http://www.womenforwomen.org/

 

And that's it, my reasons and my goals. I plan to have a great time and I can't wait to see some of my creations on other Beauties.

More Roses on your Cheeks

I've been at it again.

Here's three more Rosie Cheekies that will be available on Etsy very soon!

Yellow silk roses with silk velvet leaves

Purple roses and yellow green leaves made of fine Dupioni Silk



Silver Roses with bronze-ish green leaves

These are made of silk rayon velvet and lined with black Habotai silk. Since I make them to your specific measurements, they are a perfect fit and will feel comfortable against the skin. Look for them in about a week here https://www.etsy.com/shop/RaycieLaRaye

Rosie Cheeks

I spend my leisure time hand sewing my scraps of silk into roses. If I sit down to watch a movie or TV, which is rare, I'll pick up something to do. I can't stand to be idle so roses it is. Consequently, I have a whole basket full of pretty silk flowers. What to do? What to do? (insert light bulb here) Why not dress up one of my plainer designs? Thus Rosie Cheekies were born. Because I use tiny scraps of left over projects, no two cheekies will be the same. (Well not always). There will be three of these Lavender Rose Cheekies available. I had a bit more of that color, but it's still an exclusive design.

 

These Blue Rose Cheekies are a one of a kind creation.

 

 

As are these Red Rose Cheekies.

 

 

 I'll continue to keep my hands busy in my spare time so I'll probably offer these in other colors at another time. If you like them they can be found here... 

https://www.etsy.com/shop/raycielaraye

Along with my other creations.

 

Raycie Cheekies

I've been working hard this month. Being an independent fashion designer is no walk in the park, you really have to love what you do. I actually really love lingerie and have wanted to design it for years. After a brief stint as a Burlesque dancer and Pin up girl, I was finally inspired to get to it. So here's my first line. I call them Cheekies. They're a cute little hot pant with just a bit of cute little cheek hanging out the back. There are so many pretty parts to the female body. Although I believe in being modest most of the time, I think there is a time and place for revealing those pretty bits. My goal is to make my line of lingerie Fun and Classy, no skank involved, but as with everything else it's all about perspective. So as they do in the Burly-Q....here's the Reveal! I hope you like them, I certainly do!

 

My Sequin Cheekies

I've long had a bolt of Chinese silk Brocade with dragons and phoenix's on it. I always wondered what I would make of it. Cheekies seemed the right thing to do. I think these are my favorite!

Chinese Red Cheekies

 

I wanted to offer some softer options as well, so I created a line of frosty pastel colored Cheekies. You can go to my Etsy shop to see the range of colors. https://www.etsy.com/shop/raycielaraye

 

  

Dupioni Silk Cheekies