Sunday, December 7, 2014

Corset #1

This is my first real attempt at a bona fide corset. Since this is a mock up, I decided to play with some surface design. I got some laser cut scrap-booking paper on sale (bought it just because). I never intended to use it as a stencil, but as I was brainstorming for ideas, there it was. I have fabric paints that needed used as well, so the idea naturally came together.

I thought that blocking it in here and there would be more esthetically pleasing then an all over design.


After it dried I roll pinned and stitched the finished outer fabric to the strength layer of coutil. I'm using the cheapie stuff from Richard the Thread until I get this right. I've been using old sheets as mock up material too, I used it to create the boning channels.  I decided since this is still experimental, I'd use industrial ties again. Of course the mistakes just happen. I made the channels too big, so the bones twist in the them. Lesson learned, I won't do that again.


I also cut the blue sheet out with out seam allowance, it shifted and bubbled, so haha there's another one. I sewed the waist tape in by top stitching the seam allowances down on each side.


I decided to line this because I'm not quite sure how to finish the seam allowances (and make them smooth and look nice) yet. I put the bones in and finished the CB with grommets. I placed the grommets closer together at the waist line and spread them out a little more as they approached the upper and lower edges. I tried to make the modesty panel as much of a match as possible. My grommet and boning placement didn't work out the way I wanted, so I've got that too work on as well. You can see that I put two at the top position when I should have placed them one more position down where the laces cross over.

 
 I put the laces in and attempted to put it on (comical to say the least). I need to use at least 10 yards of lacing to get it over my bum.


Once I changed the lacing and tightened it up I got to see and feel the other  problems. Your waist will either squish up or down when reduction is incorporated into the corset. Mine apparently is a down squisher and the corset didn't have enough room to accommodate the extra bulk. It pulled the seam out just under the waist tape. I sewed it up with a whip stitch and painted over it to try to remedy the problem. (a bubble gum fix). The problem starts in the pattern, so back to the drawing board on that one. I had some pressure on my ribs as well, which is also a pattern issue.



I think, with all it's faults and mistakes, it turned out cute. I love the shape and waist definition.  I'd definitely do the painting technique again. I've learned a lot from this and my next attempt should be much better.




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